English English French French

Bruno Frisoni, the creator who gave a soul to Roger Vivier, turns on his heels ...

28 february 2018

[Click on the image to see the gallery]

The creator presented his latest collection for the boot maker the 27 February, in Paris. The opportunity to come back on this character who creates foot jewelry and who sublimates a silhouette by the essential accessory. His successor is Gherardo Felloni who designed the Miu Miu shoes. - Isabelle Cerboneschi, Paris.

A shoe or a bag are accessories that are very bad for its name: they should be renamed "essential". They can not save anything, but they can save a look. And that, Bruno Frisoni understood very young, when he left his native Italy to study fashion in Paris.

He joined Jean-Louis Scherrer in 1980 as a trainee and was hired after a few months. He stayed there for five years. He then designed accessories of the biggest names in fashion: Lanvin with Meryl Lanvin, Christian Lacroix where he entered 1989, Trussardi, Givenchy, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, before launching the brand that bears his name in 1999 .

The businessman Diego Della Valle entrusted him with the task of straightening the Roger Vivier accessories house in 2003. Bruno Frisoni has made a mark of desire that exports a very Parisian spirit around the world. A beautiful adventure that ends. His successor is Gherardo Felloni who designed the Miu Miu shoes.

I did not have the heart to ask him to tell me about the latest collection he presented Tuesday at 27 February at Pavillon Cambon. Beautiful of course, inspired by the spirit of Diana Vreeland and 60 years slightly tinged with this Arab-Andalusian influence in vogue at the time. Some slippers are set with coral stones, cabochons and with a crystal luster. The collection is eclectic: you can see precious cigarette boxes and minaudières, princess embroidered waders, and others not embroidered at all, for women who do not need anyone on a Harley Davidson or in a Fiat 500.

The emotion in the room was palpable: the staff of Roger Vivier were present, the boss Diego Della Valle too. "Bruno is like the spiritual son of Roger Vivier," said Ines de la Fressange, her throat a little tight. He understood the spirit of the house as a person. He has resurrected the spirit of the creator: thanks to him Roger Vivier is not what he was sixteen years ago, and thankfully! We are all very moved today. Everyone in the house admires his talent and has learned a lot thanks to him, as for the sophistication of luxury, the attachment to detail. Nobody can imagine that he does not remain linked to Roger Vivier in one way or another. "

"I've always said Bruno Frisoni is my baby," says the designer. Roger Vivier is also my baby, but when we have children, we know that when they reach the age of 16 years, we must let them go, because they need to take their freedom. It's time for Roger Vivier to be free of me. But this brand has my heart forever. "

So in the name of this child he let go, I wanted to publish an interview that Bruno Frisoni had given me about the child he was, and his dreams. A bow, like a pirouette ...

IC: What was your biggest childhood dream?
Bruno Frisoni: It's pretty far away childhood dreams ... It's amazing. Even if you keep dreaming all your life, I do not know if I can remember my most beautiful childhood dream. I feel like they are buried. It's not such an easy question, in my opinion. You can tell anything, but you can also try to be honest. My most beautiful childhood dream? ... There have been so many! Let's say that I have always dreamed of great sun.

Did you realize it?
It is very difficult to approach, the sun. It burns.

What traces remain in your life?
As soon as I can, I go to the sun, be it a winter or summer sun. It makes me feel good. There, I'm going skiing. I find the great sun on the white snow, with the blue sky coming off. And as soon as it disappears, we are cold.

What job did you want to do when you grew up?
There were several: cook, fireman, probably boat captain, because I liked the buttoned jacket, the cap and the white pants. When you are a child, the idea of ​​a job changes very quickly and very often according to friends or affections. But I always imagined doing a job that was full of surprises. For a long time I thought that it would be a researcher in a laboratory, then finally I started looking for something else.

The creative field is like a search?
Yes, every day we try to draw something, a different view. Finally we are never completely in reality.

What was your favorite toy?
I had boys 'toys and girls' toys. Finally, I pricked the toys of my sisters, obviously the dolls, to undress them. There is never a single answer to your questions ... There was a time when I played a lot, like all boys, with agates. These are very simple games. I've always loved Lego because we can do whatever we want with cubes, even if there is a plan, we can turn it into something else. That's what interested me: to transform. I also liked the houses in which we put characters and we could tell stories.

Did you keep them? No.

What game did you play at recess?
Ball games.

Did you climb trees?
Of course. I continue to climb. My astrological sign is the ram. I like to climb, to find myself at the top, to be on the edge of a precipice; if there is a rock on a cliff, I sit on the edge.

And what do you feel when you are at the top of a tree?
I breathe. I watch. I like being in a dominant position, I think (laughs).

What was the colour of your first bike?
Maybe red. It's ordinary. Probably red. I had a lot of bikes!

Which superhero did you dream of becoming?
Wow! I do not remember it.

What super-power did you want to be endowed with?
What super-power? (He bursts out laughing.) Being able to disappear and appear very easily. To be able to hide myself. To be able to go fast. Speed ​​defines me pretty well, too. I always try to do things fast enough and I like to go fast. I would have liked something that gives me the opportunity to go even faster ... Wings?

Did you dream in colour or in black and white?
In colour.

What was your favorite book?
It was a book about a little boy who lived in China. A black and white photo book. I was offered it when I was very young. I think they were pictures of the Hong Kong harbor with these little boats, the pictures of the families and this kid. I watched it a lot. Then the comics. I used to like Pif Gadget and the Pieds Nickelés if it says something to someone.

Of course! Have you read them since?
No. But from time to time I reread Tintin when I was in the country. I found in a "fair for everything" a pile of Tintin that I bought of course. I love drawing. At one time, I read comics when I was too busy with my work, to try to relax and think about something else, not being able to get into a book that was too heavy, the comic book is a pretty good easy medium. Me who is not very televore, it allowed me to deal with something light.

What taste did you have at childhood?
The taste of happiness.

And if this childhood had a fragrance, what would it be?
The scent of love.

During the summer holidays, you went to see the sea?
Yes. Of course. The sun and the sea. The mountain came very late in my life. I have always been attracted to water. From very small, I was taken to the edge of the Italian beaches, since my parents are Italians. They needed to go back to their roots.

Do you know how to make paper planes?
Yes, but they never fly. They nose dive.

Were you afraid of the dark?
No never. I love black. I like to sleep in total darkness. If there is a ray of light, I try to close the curtains totally. I hate in hotels all these bright technological elements. It's horrible. I always have paper with me to hide the little light from the TV screens. Sometimes I pick up all the shops. Besides my room is currently the colour of your sweater, iced brown, chocolate. It's a very dark little box. Ideally. As a Child too, I always liked black. We had to get used to sleeping in the dark, I think.

Do you remember the name of your first love?
According to mom, it changed often. I've always been told that in kindergarten I was the boy with the most fiancees. No, I do not remember.

And of the child you have been?
Yes, a blond little boy like the wheats. I think I was as wise as I was turbulent. Turbulent mainly with people who loved me a lot. And wise with those who impressed me a little. I was a jealous child too. Very, very, very jealous! I remember fits of jealousy and especially a correction, so I was jealous. I do not remember much, but from that I remember it.

Does he still accompany you?
I think we live in childhood very long. I feel like I always use my childhood. These are the first desires, the first opening of the mind. With the rather vague answers that I finally give you, I realize that it is not as accurate as that, the childhood, and that we changed the colors over time. But the first impressions are the ones that mark you the most. It's like in my work: I always go back to startup. The first notes are the last notes.

"The first notes are the last notes."