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Milan: A positive Renaissance

The sun is shining in Milan today. A refreshing wind swept the gray clouds that reveal a blue sky and the endless promise of spring. The curtain has just closed on what could have been one of the most beautiful fashion week in Milan for a long time. The autumn-winter 2019 ready-to-wear is a bearer of hope, Prada and Gucci lead this beautiful procession. - Sara Kaufman.

February 27 2019

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Milan Fashion Week, Fall-Winter Collections 2019. From left to right: Marni, Prada, Gucci. © DR

If we consider the deep waters in which Italy and Europe are found, it is comforting and somewhat moving to see creators react to the general feeling of uncertainty by such a courageous act of beauty. Aesthetics has a lot, if not everything, to do with ethics and, since fashion collections never go out of nowhere, but are a response to a specific demand, one might wonder if, below 'an angry surface, does not nest a genuine desire for a positive rebirth.

Positive is actually the adjective that could better define the fair. Positive not as "blind" but as resilient, strong, pure. Positive as generous, inclusive and above all free.

Prada

Miuccia Prada is, by definition, a pioneer. We look at Prada fashion shows to understand the direction of fashion, to understand what people want and want and also to get a glimpse of the contemporary world, because that's what fashion makes: it reflects society. However, his last parade was different and, in some ways, harder to interpret. Prada continues the narration she started with her collection of men's clothing, which revolves around Mary Shelley's Frankenstein, so old and yet so contemporary with its monstrous features and thirst for love. She generously offered Frankenstein a bride in her women's show, but a bride extremely difficult to understand because she defies all common definitions: she is both a witch, an anti-social teenager like Wednesday Addams, a bourgeois in the dress decadent flower, a soldier, a wife and a widow in mourning. She is everything and nothing. She wears combat boots and men's shoes, drapes her figure in manly fabrics and reveals just enough of her legs under black lace skirts. It is dangerous, but here again, danger is everywhere today, as is fear.

Miuccia Prada recognizes the importance of designers speaking out loud, giving voice to fashion rather than creating pretty clothes. And his voice is strong. Women in Italy form a resistance, protesting against patriarchy, chauvinism and gender inequality, but also against the current government. They are, for the moment, the only ones to really fight. Therefore, it is right that they are uninhibited, they reveal their dark side, make everyone uncomfortable. Prada understands this and sends her women's peloton on the podium at Marilyn Manson's "I put a spell on you" and a strange violin version of Bad Romance. The show had a title (quite unusual for Prada), it was called "Anatomy of Romance" (Ed), more need for sugar coating.

Gucci

When things scare you, you have a choice: you can put on a mask or remove it. Of course, the best thing to do would be to take it off, be brave and show your true self, but the best does not necessarily mean the wisest.

The world of today is digital. Reality is virtual, relationships are virtual, money is virtual ... Is there something really beyond our screens? At the same time, the amount of information we receive and are forced to deal with is overwhelming. So we chose to wear a mask: we hide behind our screens, all emotions are scrambled, we digest information and reject in the way that suits us best. But we have been duped: masks can be as revealing as clothes: they say as much about us as our outfit. There is nowhere to hide, we are exposed.

Thank god Alessandro Michele is considerate enough not to send us "out there" unarmed; his models wear spiky collars, knee protections, broad shoulders and, in one case, also a big, dangly crucifix. Perhaps a bit to nerdy for actual fighting, but definitely capable of self-defense.

Last month, Gucci was accused of racism and blackface for creating a black knit top adorned with a red lipstick pattern. Even if it is hard to believe that Alessandro Michele had in mind degrading racist acts when he launched this sweater, it is quite disturbing to see how much racism is still relevant today, to the point that people see the traces everywhere. At the same time, the desire to attack anyone with a certain power, including a young designer who became an artistic director overnight, is emblematic of a general discontent.

Michele's idea of ​​how to fight all this is to learn and develop critical thinking. After all, knowledge, the true one, is the only weapon that can not be taken away from us.

Marni

If Miuccia Prada proposes - gothic - romance as a reaction to this Dark Age, Francesco Risso's take on how to survive this unhealthy period is all about the pulsions of the irrational part of our mind and, consequently, of our body. Neuroerotik: between neurons and hormones. And if hormones generally win over neurons, it is also true that they feed themselves on the intellectual imagination and fantasies that the neurons provide. Everything can be erotic if we decide it is, and there lies the true freedom: taking our pulsions and our desires far from predefined and preordained diktats.

In the latest Marni collection, there are references to various forms of fetishism, from leather piercing, to colors and fabrics that contrast perfectly and that seemingly have nothing sexy about them. What could be more liberating than not having to fear sensuality and envy? Whether displaying or hiding them under a white tunic that hides everything, or wearing chains, leather, occasional plunging necklines ... But also by superimposing colorful clothes that cover every inch of the body, showing nothing only vaguely a silhouette with a narrow waist. And all this invites us to dress not as someone else, but as the being we are.

Antonio Marras

Antonio Marras is an artist, a writer, a painter, a poet. And he is also a fashion designer. His clothes are not just made to be worn, they must be touched, smelled, read and listened to. They have a soul, they talk, they tell stories. This season the story was written by Patrizia - Antonio's wife - who imagined letters written by Amedeo Modigliani in the last part of his life, to his mother and his friends. Staged at Marras, in his beautiful shop / showroom / bookstore / art gallery / artist's fair, the show included not only models, but also a group of actors who read the letters with increasingly dramatic tones while flirting with each other and drinking glasses of sparkling wine. A bohemian collection, slightly nostalgic in its genre, but so creative and poetic that nostalgia was more like a dream, a walk in a suspended reality.

Given Antonio's artistic background Marras the collection was also an extremely varied and richly decorated work of art. Large shapes, almost Like the

boys and more cinched outfits, with fabrics ranging from golden brocade to tartan and prince of Wales, leopard prints, chiffon and lace skirts and thick knits. A symphony of aesthetic contrasts.

Today, unlike Prada, Antonio Marras is not a trend creator. Not because he does not have the ability to predict and dictate trends, but simply because he does not care about attending his parade during fashion week would be like opening a book after watching TV all day. A good novel will always be more nourishing. If Francesco Risso staged wild physical drives to express a need for freedom, Marras is content to stage his timeless work, which is and will always be that of a free man.

Act N.1

Dream and freedom. These concepts are carried out also by Act N. XNUMX - the young designer duo formed by Galib Gassanoff and Luca Lin - during its second show in Milan. Once again fashion meets performing art, viewers become voyeurs as they look inside the intimacy of a giant bedroom, where girls tell their stories overcoming the general sense of awkwardness that you experience when you are trying hard to fit in but you just feel lonely and misunderstood. Watercolor - slightly Louis Vuittonish - landscapes combine with subcultural references from the XNUMXs, oriental prints meet transparent PVC and hoodies are paired with silk skirts and gowns.

silk. If the brand is still too young to have its own references, all its work is so far strictly related to the lives of its creators - based in northern Italy but from China andAzerbaijan - their childhood, the traditional know-how of their country, their culture, local art ... A generous and inclusive idea of ​​fashion, where the "staff" takes center stage as a means of sincere communication.

As the fashion crowd moves on to Paris, the sun shines brightly today in Milan.

Milan: A positive Renaissance

February 27 2019

[Click on the image to see the gallery]

The sun is shining in Milan today. A refreshing wind swept the gray clouds that reveal a blue sky and the endless promise of spring. The curtain has just closed on what could have been one of the most beautiful fashion week in Milan for a long time. The autumn-winter 2019 ready-to-wear is a bearer of hope, Prada and Gucci lead this beautiful procession. - Sara Kaufman.

If we consider the deep waters in which Italy and Europe are found, it is comforting and somewhat moving to see creators react to the general feeling of uncertainty by such a courageous act of beauty. Aesthetics has a lot, if not everything, to do with ethics and, since fashion collections never go out of nowhere, but are a response to a specific demand, one might wonder if, below 'an angry surface, does not nest a genuine desire for a positive rebirth.

Positive is actually the adjective that could better define the fair. Positive not as "blind" but as resilient, strong, pure. Positive as generous, inclusive and above all free.

Prada

Miuccia Prada is, by definition, a pioneer. We look at Prada fashion shows to understand the direction of fashion, to understand what people want and want and also to get a glimpse of the contemporary world, because that's what fashion makes: it reflects society. However, his last parade was different and, in some ways, harder to interpret. Prada continues the narration she started with her collection of men's clothing, which revolves around Mary Shelley's Frankenstein, so old and yet so contemporary with its monstrous features and thirst for love. She generously offered Frankenstein a bride in her women's show, but a bride extremely difficult to understand because she defies all common definitions: she is both a witch, an anti-social teenager like Wednesday Addams, a bourgeois in the dress decadent flower, a soldier, a wife and a widow in mourning. She is everything and nothing. She wears combat boots and men's shoes, drapes her figure in manly fabrics and reveals just enough of her legs under black lace skirts. It is dangerous, but here again, danger is everywhere today, as is fear.

Miuccia Prada recognizes the importance of designers speaking out loud, giving voice to fashion rather than creating pretty clothes. And his voice is strong. Women in Italy form a resistance, protesting against patriarchy, chauvinism and gender inequality, but also against the current government. They are, for the moment, the only ones to really fight. Therefore, it is right that they are uninhibited, they reveal their dark side, make everyone uncomfortable. Prada understands this and sends his female platoon stepping on the podium at the rate of "I put a spell on you" de Marilyn Manson and a strange version for violin of Bad Romance, Show had a title (quite unusual for Prada), it was called "Anatomy of Romance » (Anatomy of Romanticism, Editor's note) no need for sugar coating.

Gucci

When things scare you, you have a choice: you can put on a mask or remove it. Of course, the best thing to do would be to take it off, be brave and show your true self, but the best does not necessarily mean the wisest.

The world of today is digital. Reality is virtual, relationships are virtual, money is virtual ... Is there something really beyond our screens? At the same time, the amount of information we receive and are forced to deal with is overwhelming. So we chose to wear a mask: we hide behind our screens, all emotions are scrambled, we digest information and reject in the way that suits us best. But we have been duped: masks can be as revealing as clothes: they say as much about us as our outfit. There is nowhere to hide, we are exposed.

Alessandro Michele kindly do not send us "outside" without weapons; his models wear bristly necklaces, knee pads, broad shoulders and, in one case, a large crucifix. It will make us totally displaced in real combat, but certainly capable of self-defense.

Last month, Gucci was accused of racism and blackface for creating a black knit top with a red lipstick pattern. Even if it is hard to believe that Alessandro Michele had in mind degrading racist acts when he launched this sweater, it is quite disturbing to see how much racism is still relevant today, to the point that people see the traces everywhere. At the same time, the desire to attack anyone with a certain power, including a young designer who became an artistic director overnight, is emblematic of a general discontent.

Michele's idea of ​​how to fight all this is to learn and develop critical thinking. After all, knowledge, the true one, is the only weapon that can not be taken away from us.

Marni

Si Miuccia Prada proposes a Gothic romanticism, as a reaction to this dark age, Francesco Risso explains how to survive this unhealthy period by appealing to the impulses of the irrational part of our mind and, consequently, of our body. Neuroerotik: between neurons and hormones. And if hormones usually win the race against neurons, it is also true that they feed on the imagination and the fantasies that they produce. Everything can be erotic, if we decide it, and there resides true freedom: to take our impulses and our desires far from predefined and pre-established diktats.

In the latest Marni collection, there are references to various forms of fetishism, from leather piercing, to colors and fabrics that contrast perfectly and that seemingly have nothing sexy about them. What could be more liberating than not having to fear sensuality and envy? Whether displaying or hiding them under a white tunic that hides everything, or wearing chains, leather, occasional plunging necklines ... But also by superimposing colorful clothes that cover every inch of the body, showing nothing only vaguely a silhouette with a narrow waist. And all this invites us to dress not as someone else, but as the being we are.

Antonio Marras

Antonio Marras is an artist, a writer, a painter, a poet. And he is also a fashion designer. His clothes are not just made to be worn, they must be touched, smelled, read and listened to. They have a soul, they talk, they tell stories. This season the story was written by Patrizia - Antonio's wife - who imagined letters written by Amedeo Modigliani in the last part of his life, to his mother and his friends. Staged at Marras, in his beautiful shop / showroom / bookstore / art gallery / artist's fair, the show included not only models, but also a group of actors who read the letters with increasingly dramatic tones while flirting with each other and drinking glasses of sparkling wine. A bohemian collection, slightly nostalgic in its genre, but so creative and poetic that nostalgia was more like a dream, a walk in a suspended reality.

Given Antonio's artistic background Marras the collection was also an extremely varied and richly decorated work of art. Large shapes, almost Comme des Garçons and more cinched outfits, with fabrics ranging from golden brocade to tartan and prince of Wales, leopard prints, chiffon and lace skirts and thick knits. A symphony of aesthetic contrasts.

Today, unlike Prada, Antonio Marras is not a trend creator. Not because he does not have the ability to predict and dictate trends, but simply because he does not care about attending his parade during fashion week would be like opening a book after watching TV all day. A good novel will always be more nourishing. If Francesco Risso staged wild physical drives to express a need for freedom, Marras is content to stage his timeless work, which is and will always be that of a free man.

Act N.1

Antonio Marras is an artist, a writer, a painter, a poet. And he is also a fashion designer. His clothes are not just made to be worn, they must be touched, smelled, read and listened to. They have a soul, they talk, they tell stories. This season the story was written by Patrizia - Antonio's wife - who imagined letters written by Amedeo Modigliani in the last part of his life, to his mother and his friends. Staged at Marras, in his beautiful shop / showroom / bookstore / art gallery / artist's fair, the show included not only models, but also a group of actors who read the letters with increasingly dramatic tones while flirting with each other and drinking glasses of sparkling wine. A bohemian collection, slightly nostalgic in its genre, but so creative and poetic that nostalgia was more like a dream, a walk in a suspended reality.

Given Antonio's artistic background Marras the collection was also an extremely varied and richly decorated work of art. Large shapes, almost Comme des Garçons and more cinched outfits, with fabrics ranging from golden brocade to tartan and prince of Wales, leopard prints, chiffon and lace skirts and thick knits. A symphony of aesthetic contrasts.

Today, unlike Prada, Antonio Marras is not a trend creator. Not because he does not have the ability to predict and dictate trends, but simply because he does not care about attending his parade during fashion week would be like opening a book after watching TV all day. A good novel will always be more nourishing. If Francesco Risso staged wild physical drives to express a need for freedom, Marras is content to stage his timeless work, which is and will always be that of a free man.