The hands of Nicolas Ghesquière
And if we go back to the original gesture, the one that generates the fashion collections? Put the light on the hands, who know how to transcribe an inspiration through a drawing, that's the idea. - Isabelle Cerboneschi
And not just any hands: those of an autodidact, a gifted fashion man, who spent his childhood drawing clothes and sending them tirelessly, from the city of Loudun where he grew up, to all the studios of fashion of the capital. Those of Nicolas Ghesquière, the artistic director of Louis Vuitton, met in his Parisian offices.
"What can I say from my hands? I like them in fact, even if they are small. They look like me, "he says.
"I draw a lot. Everything starts with the line in a collection. Last but not least: there is a mix of different influences that can be visual, tactile with the choice of subjects or just the attitude of a woman I would have met. "
"The ability to materialize your ideas is essential in this business. There are people who draw extremely well and who can not put their ideas in volume and people who are very beautiful and who will never have an idea that expresses something.
"I am not manual but I am instinctive. I do a lot of crafts. I do not have training as a patternmaker or cutter but I'm not afraid to confront all kinds of subjects. Here, with the leather I am having a lot of fun. They have such great leathers at Louis Vuitton! I take what I am given or what I asked. And I'm not afraid to cut, staple, pin, start building volumes in relation to my drawing, very freely, on a Stockman or a cabin mannequin. It's not at all academic, the sleeve is all twisted, but I can express things in volume very freely. "
I ask him the material he prefers?
"The skin, of course!"
And as he speaks, his hands twirl, caressing an imaginary mannequin or a fabric that only he perceives.
A version of this article is published on July 5 2015