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When Spain meets Japan in a bottle

15 March 2018

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Loewe launches a perfume whose bottle is inspired by the ancient art of origami: Loewe Solo Origami. Fresh water from the aromatic fern family. Meet the perfumer house Emilio Valeros. - By Valérie Dana, Madrid.

A perfume whose bottle is inspired by origami, the ancient Japanese art? This is Loewe Solo Origami. Loewe is one of the most famous Spanish houses and with good reason. The know-how is not a mystery to the initiated. Recognised for its wonderful leather, the brand was born in 1872, thanks to the association of Heinrich Loewe Rösseberg, a German craftsman who moved to Madrid, with a leather workshop.

In 1905, Loewe became a supplier to the Royal House and subsequently opened stores in Barcelona and Madrid. In the 1970 years, the brand entered the world of ready-to-wear and launched a fragrance in Loewe's 1972: L, the first in a long series of fragrances, both feminine and masculine. Since 1987, Loewe belongs to the LVMH group.

Solo Loewe is one of the iconic perfumes of the Spanish brand. More than a perfume, it's a hymn to modernism. Each of its variations is inspired by design and architecture. This large family consists of Loewe Solo Esencial whose influence is iron, Loewe Solo Cedro, formed of pieces of wood and the last one, Loewe Solo Origami, which transports us into the world of paper.

In order to launch this new opus in an original way, the teams of Loewe in Spain chose Casa Decor, the rendezvous for all lovers of interior architecture of the Hispanic capital. Thanks to the collaboration of the interior designer Pepe Leal, they created a stand on which we can discover in exclusivity this fragrance with very fresh woody notes, while learning the different Japanese arts, until the 25 march.

Why a Spanish perfume with Japanese reminiscences? Because it's about commemorating the 150th anniversary of relations between Spain and the Japanese Embassy in Madrid. During February and March commemorative acts will take place between the two countries in which Loewe will participates. To make discoveries of Japanese traditions, that are far removed from the Spanish ones, is the bet launched by the house and this thanks to various workshops of origami, ikebana (floral art), shodo (calligraphy) o budokon yoga (yoga and martial arts). The public has responded to this original marriage between the launch of Solo Loewe Origami and the presentation of millenary arts.

To learn more about this new fragrance, we met Emilio Valeros, Loewe perfumer for over twenty years.

VD: You have been for more than 20 years the perfumer of the house Loewe: we can call it love?
Emilio Valeros: Yes, indeed, the word love is not too strong. The secret to continuing to create perfumes is to surround yourself with a wonderful, young and talented team that takes part in all the creative processes. We are used to working on several launches at the same time, as well as perfumes that will never see the light of day but with which I have fun innovating, using new techniques, new ingredients.

How did you become a perfumer?
Since I was little, I was surrounded by species and very influenced by the work my father did in the laboratory because he himself worked in a perfume company. I remember going to our country house and playing with the ingredients and formulas I found there. Subsequently I got my degree as a chemist and I started to learn Spanish perfume by working for the brand Gal. This is how I started my first steps in the world of perfume.

What was the creation process of Loewe Solo Origami?
Each creation is a new adventure. We always start by working the top note; it is this that transmits the first impression we will have of a perfume. Then, we build the heart note which is the reflection of the character of a perfume. And we finish this course with the background notes that are those that will stay on our skin and allow the first two to evolve. I always select the ingredients of a perfume by immersing myself in the concept that we want to convey. In this case, it was the folds, geometric shapes and volumes of origami. Subsequently I choose some essential oils according to the total composition to obtain the perfect balance.

What universe did you want to convey with this fragrance?
It is a fresh and delicate eau de toilette, from the family of aromatic ferns, which is inspired by origami, the thousand-year-old art of Japanese folding in its purest form. We do not use scissors or glue to create these figures. Some are real paper sculptures.

How long did it take to create it?
This part of the creation varies according to the complexity of the perfume but in general it takes a year to a year and a half from the beginning of the creative process.

How do you feel after such a piece of work that could be compared to a birth: as a proud dad in front of his baby?
Actually creating a new perfume is always a party. It means a before and after, a change in the way of perceiving the brand. It is the beginning of everything else that will happen ...