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Heavy metal

December 6 2017

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On the eyes of the models who presented the autumn-winter collections, like those of the spring-summer, appeared metallic reflections, iridescent, changing, like these tuned cars. The new palettes make the eyes carapace like a golden scarab. All the better, it seems that they bring good luck. - Gaëlle Aguiar.


At the end of this year 2017, where the world seems to turn upside down, there is little room for pastel colors or nude makeup, too naive to be real. The sweetness of life, it will be for later. When political tensions have subsided, or not. Brands have chosen to bet on bright colors, electrifying eyes, like an armor. We face as we can.

Eyes made up like a stolen car, an affirmed mouth with metallic reflections from nails that sparkle, luxury brands with more accessible signs, all have chosen to follow the call of metal. Make-up artists are free of the standards of beauty, the limits of creation are rejected, and freedom of expression takes on its full meaning here.

We know that fashion is cyclical. Beauty too. Metallic shades, seen a lot in the 2000 years, are a little touch on the eyelids or lips 2017. The colors being so saturated that to wear it in total look, we must ensure.

These intense makeups are not only reserved for the stage, or the night world. They also come out during the day and it is not uncommon to meet women who have added a pop touch in their make-up, which allows to raise a discreet makeup. It comes close to fashion faux-pas and at the same time, not even. This is the little touch it takes to be in the light of this end of the year 2017. A desire to borrow some glitter balls Christmas tree? Especially not. Rather a way of asserting oneself, even in one's own dissonances and showing that one is playing with the codes and the tools put at our disposal to draw the mask that one wishes to display.

Makeup is aptly named: it hides, but it reveals at once. At a time when some men want to hide women under a veil, wearing a metallic makeup is a way to assert its uniqueness and above all its freedom.

Electric look
Louboutin offers its customers nail polishes and lipsticks to match their shoes with metallic colors: the line Metalissime Nail Color, which reveals the scintillating colors of the claw. Their formula is elaborated with a special pigment, which gives an intense and brilliant color, for a glitter effect. It contains reflective beads that give the nails an amazing scintillating effect.

Maybelline New York, the mainstream brand targeting Generation Z, is also following the trend with its eye shadow Metallic Eye Shadow. A declination of patinated and shimmering shades and an intense finish that bring to the eye a real depth. Beauty addicts can choose between turquoise blue, gold, pink, brilliant brown and bronze. What wake up a style that sleeps.

For a few seasons, make-up with glittery effects has become a staple in bathrooms, following the fashion that has given pride of place to Dalida's wardrobe. Glitter is golden, silver, pink, purple or blue, ... To avoid the ABBA look at the end of the concert, we apply light touches, in the inner corner, on the eyelids or on the mouth in a more pronounced look. Sometimes added to a nude makeup in discrete touch, to give the illusion of a ray of moon landing on the skin.

Other brands such as Kylie cosmetics, created by Kylie Jenner, Mac or Bobbie Brown have also chosen to follow this trend by offering metal pallets in their product lines. It must be said that with the omnipresence of social networks, difficult for Millennials to miss the bursts of color on the faces of Gigi Hadid, Taylor Hill or Kendall Jenner, and the metallic mouth of Lindsay Wixson, who is the face of Dior's 2017 / 18 fall-winter make-up collection.

Heavy Metal
Created by Peter Philips, Creative Director and Image for Dior Makeup, the fall collection is a story of contrasts and contradictory effects: the encounter between matte and metallic effects. Through the palettes he designs, Peter Philips offers a sophisticated and insolent makeup, electrical and elegant limit. The clash of opposites. It gives women the freedom to play with textures and effects. We find in this collection a particular sensoriality, a play of textures, and vibrant hues. The nails are painted in warm colors, to contrast with the cold of the season.

For makeup artists, knowing how to play with contrasts is essential when using these metallic make-ups. It is important to obtain different effects, and to alternate between metallic and more classical textures. Eye and lip shadows metallizer of Dior allow to intensify the look, while playing on the oppositions of colors. A hybrid product heavily loaded with pigments, a strangely creamy texture, but dries in no time, leaving the impression of a color without matter. Apply to the finger, for a lighter finish, or brush, to enhance the effect.

The Estée Lauder brand has chosen bold, powerful and intrepid colors with a finished look like super-matte brushed matte metal. Total impact. For Violette, Makeup Artist and Global Beauty Director at Estée Lauder, it's important to put the right color and texture in the right place so that the make-up really does work. The textures must be handled with a particular audacity. She thinks that the woman wears makeup for her pleasure, but also to express her personality. Makeup is by no means conventional: it should express who we are. And each does what he likes.

For Lucia Pica, Global Creative Designer for Makeup and Chanel Color, makeup is essential in affirming the woman's personality, but also in celebrating difference. His obsession with powerful colors is indomitable, and his inspiration knows no bounds. Whether in terms of colors, or textures, mixing is essential in his eyes. A story of character.

At Chanel, moreover, it is the whole body that goes there: with the No 5 Gold Fragments we literally transform ourselves into an icon passed to the gold leaf. Women are abused? The double C mark sings their preciousness. Women are goddesses, untouchable, here is the message, as the holidays approach. Let him be heard ...