Matte lips by Pat McGrath
5th June 2018
[Click on the image to see the gallery]
The most influential make-up artist in the world has launched her own make-up line in 2015. The first hue, a gold-tone effect with multiple functions called Gold 001, was exhausted in 6 minutes! It continues to launch both limited and unlimited editions. Hyperpigmented colors that go to all skin tones. – Isabelle Cerboneschi, New York. Photos: Buonomo & Cometti.
The first time I realized the power of Pat McGrath was at a Dior show. In 2003, I believe. The girls had their faces made up like a painting by Alexej von Jawlensky; skin as white as a canvas, eyes underlined by two black lines, eyebrows in the shape of arches defining the shape of the face, a mouth that seemed to have been drawn with pure pigment, an essence.
Why did I talk about her power? Because I remember makeup, but not the ready-to-wear collection, yet designed by John Galliano. I realised that makeup could be more powerful than the clothes it was supposed to support. There was, in these condensed figures, something from theatre nô and painted faces of New Romantics wandering on King's Road in the early 1980s. Inspiring creatures that this English, born in 1965, certainly crossed in her adolescence.
Each year, Pat McGrath creates the beauty looks of 80s shows with her army of assistants that she sometimes recruits on social networks. She is also the first make-up artist to have received the Founder's Award during CFDA awards in June 2017. Makeup as a definition of oneself? Pat McGrath had herself to bring out.
In an interview published in The GuardianI discovered that she had learned makeup from childhood with her mother, who raised her alone. At the time there was no specific line for black skin and it was necessary to make her own mixtures to avoid the grey look of pigments developed for white skin. Hence her taste for strong makeup pigments.
In 2015, she launched her own range called Pat McGrath Lab, sold first of all on her website. Its first colour, Gold 001 - a multi-purpose product that could be used wet or dry, eyeliner or on the lips, or anywhere on the body - it was sold out in 6 minutes.
In July 2017 she launched her first line of matte lipsticks called Lust; MatteTrance. I took a trip to New York to discover them. Heading to the Sephora store on 5th Avenue, where an African-American saleswoman, with perfect skin, with an ideal eyebrow, made up to the millimetre like a star preparing to walk the red carpet, led me with an unmitigated enthusiasm towards Pat McGrath's collection.
She taught me that the 9 matte lipstick hues, set in a black metal tube set with a golden mouth and launched in July 2017 in limited edition, were sold out since a long time. Just like Lip Fetish lip balm I dreamed of bringing back. Impossible to discover Omi, the nude tint created for Naomi Campbell, the muse of Pat NcGrath no more than Elson, a scarlet hue inspired by the redhead Karen Elson. But the make-up artist took care to launch in January 2018 twenty colors in unlimited edition.
The material? Astonishing, both creamy and matte, very rich in pigments, that doesn't hide the texture of the lips. Nothing to do with the matte reds that stick and dry the lips and give the effect of a waterproof mouth. This one offers real comfort. The perfect red, thought for all women. Jean, Pat McGrath's mother, who died in 1992, would have loved it.
Available on PATMcGRATH.COM and at Sephora in the United States.