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The secrets of Alaïa's spring-summer 1992 collection unveiled

How is a collection born? There are as many answers as there are creators or designers. But if you go to the 18 rue de la Verrerie, until January 6, in Paris you can discover how was born the spring-summer 1992 designed by Azzedine Alaïa. Over the exhibition entitled " L’Alchimie secrète d’une collection One can perceive in the background what she owes to the Marquise de Pompadour. – Isabelle Cerboneschi, Paris.

October 23 2018

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Azzedine Alaïa in his fief of the Marais.

The designer Azzedine Alaïa had established his stronghold in the Marais district where he had acquired an island of buildings to install his workshop, his shop, a place of life, exhibition and meetings, and later a hotel with some rooms where to receive his friends.

When he acquired this set, in 1987, including an industrial workshop that was formerly hôtel des évêques de Bauvaishe discovered during the works that Jeanne-Antoinette Poisson, who had become the Marquise de Pompadour, the favorite of King Louis XV, had been educated in these places. Thanks to this apprenticeship, and to her beauty, the young woman, who did not belong to the nobility, had managed to enter the Court and had traced its way to the King.

The Pompadour fascinated Azzedine Alaïa: she represented the woman in all the expression of her power, able to overcome the obstacle of her origins to twist destiny and rise to the pinnacle: the throne of France. The couturier saw in this coincidence a wink. In 1991, he settled rue de la Verrerie with his companion, the artist Christoph von Veyhe, and decided to create a collection inspired by the Marquise de Pompadour: the 1992 spring-summer collection. "It pleased him a lot to discover that the Pompadour had lived there," says Olivier Saillard, curator of the exhibition "The Secret Alchemy of a Collection". That's why he made this collection. He had done a lot of research. He felt under his sponsorship. "

This is the most important collection ever created by the fashion designer: 115 passages. There are references to Versailles in the English embroidery bordering the hems, in the trompe l'oeil ribbons on the knitted dresses, but especially in the bustiers and the perforated and serrated leather corsets.

" For the first exposurewe had presented works that had already been exhibited, which was easier to implement, explains Olivier Saillard. For the second, Carla Sozzani (President of

the Azzedine Alaïa Association, ed.) proposed that the exhibits of the first collection presented in these places be exhibited. The reserves and collections of Azzedine being huge and plethoric, well stocked but badly arranged, it was a miraculous catch! "

The dresses of the 1992 spring-summer collection are displayed on busts whose transparency leaves plenty of room for the couturier's know-how, for his art of cutting that makes his clothes seem always inhabited. It is impossible to date these clothes, as it is the case for all his work elsewhere. Long before creators and designers took inspiration from the past to reinvent a certain present, Azzedine Alaïa had played the game of time travel. But with subtlety and a formidable mastery: if we do not know the origins of the collection, we do not grasp the references to the Pompadour.

On a wall of the exhibition, we discover the video of the parade. We see the top models of the time, those who made their name a brand: Naomi (Campbell), Linda (Evangelista), Christy (Turlington), Cindy (Crawford), and others, beautiful to the power ten, funny, players. "It was a time when they had fun, recalls Olivier Saillard. They had bodies, curves, and they were not all the same. ".

The exhibition unveils models that had not been shown since the parade, like "all these little dresses in the end mesh, in very special colors, like crushed raspberries, that I had never seen, says the curator of the exhibition. The colors remained intact. Azzedine had the strong sense of the work to keep, even if he did it in an unlikely order. "

The secret Alchemy of a collection, 18 rue de la Verrerie, Paris. The exhibition lasts until January 6, and is open every day from 11: 00 to 19: 00 h

The secrets of Alaïa's spring-summer 1992 collection unveiled

October 23 2018

[Click on the image to see the gallery]

How is a collection born? There are as many answers as there are creators or designers. But if you go to the 18 rue de la Verrerie, until January 6, in Paris you can discover how was born the spring-summer 1992 designed by Azzedine Alaïa. Over the exhibition entitled " L’Alchimie secrète d’une collection One can perceive in the background what she owes to the Marquise de Pompadour. – Isabelle Cerboneschi, Paris.

The designer Azzedine Alaïa had established his stronghold in the Marais district where he had acquired an island of buildings to install his workshop, his shop, a place of life, exhibition and meetings, and later a hotel with some rooms where to receive his friends.

When he acquired this set, in 1987, including an industrial workshop that was formerly hôtel des évêques de Bauvaishe discovered during the works that Jeanne-Antoinette Poisson, who had become the Marquise de Pompadour, the favorite of King Louis XV, had been educated in these places. Thanks to this apprenticeship, and to her beauty, the young woman, who did not belong to the nobility, had managed to enter the Court and had traced its way to the King.

The Pompadour fascinated Azzedine Alaïa: she represented the woman in all the expression of her power, able to overcome the obstacle of her origins to twist destiny and rise to the pinnacle: the throne of France. The couturier saw in this coincidence a wink. In 1991, he settled rue de la Verrerie, with his companion the artist Christoph von Veyhe, and decided to create a collection inspired by the Marquise de Pompadour: the 1992 spring-summer collection. "It pleased him a lot to discover that the Pompadour had lived there," says Olivier Saillard, curator of the exhibition "The Secret Alchemy of a Collection". That's why he made this collection. He had done a lot of research. He felt under his sponsorship. "

This is the most important collection ever created by the fashion designer: 115 passages. There are references to Versailles in the English embroidery bordering the hems, in the trompe l'oeil ribbons on the knitted dresses, but especially in the bustiers and the perforated and serrated leather corsets.

" For the first exposurewe had presented works that had already been exhibited, which was easier to implement, explains Olivier Saillard. For the second, Carla Sozzani (the president of the Association Azzedine Alaïa, Ed.) Proposed that the exhibits of the first collection presented in these places be exhibited. The reserves and collections of Azzedine being huge and plethoric, well stocked but badly arranged, it was a miraculous catch! "

The dresses of the 1992 spring-summer collection are displayed on busts whose transparency leaves plenty of room for the couturier's know-how, for his art of cutting that makes his clothes seem always inhabited. Impossible to date these clothes. This applies to all his work elsewhere. Long before creators and designers were inspired by the past to reinvent a certain present, Azzedine Alaïa had lent itself to the game of time travel. But with subtlety and a formidable mastery: if we do not know the origins of the collection, we do not grasp the references to the Pompadour.

On a wall of the exhibition, we discover the parade video: we see the top models of the time, those who made their name a brand: Naomi (Campbell), Linda (Evangelista), Christy (Turlington) , Cindy (Crawford), and others, beautiful at the power of ten, funny, playful. "It was a time when they had fun, recalls Olivier Saillard. They had bodies, curves, and they were not all the same. ".

The exhibition unveils models that had not been shown since the parade, like "all these little dresses in the end mesh, in very special colors, like crushed raspberries, that I had never seen, says the curator of the exhibition. The colors remained intact. Azzedine had the strong sense of the work to keep, even if he did it in an unlikely order. "

The secret Alchemy of a collection, 18 rue de la Verrerie, Paris. The exhibition lasts until January 6, and is open every day from 11: 00 to 19: 00 h