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Custom beauty

May 24th

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Skin is an organ that evolves steadily and responds to the seasons, the environment, pollution, our health, and many other factors. It can not be reduced to these four states: oily, dry, sensitive and mixed. It deserves to be cared for in a more targeted way. Good news: personalised care, previously reserved for a privileged clientele, has become more popular. - Isabelle Cerboneschi.

For too long our skin has been reduced to four states: oily, dry, sensitive and combination. A reductive classification that did not take into account at all the fact that the skin is an organ that reacts according to the season, the time of day, the hormonal, psychic, physical state of the person. One day we can have skin that is tight because of the cold, another day redness after exposure to the sun, or the skin dried up from hours of aircraft. But to fill our cupboards with many pots of creams for each situations is most malpractice.

Hence the concept of personalised care. It was born in the pharmacies of aesthetic doctors, in some Spas and beauty salons, and the mind of Joëlle Ciocco. A kind of haute couture of beauty that was reserved for a wealthy clientele.

But like many luxury goods, this "tailor-made" care has begun to become more democratic. Some niche brands offered their own formulas with a base cream and additional serums: Codage, Labote, Ioma, or Phi Essentiel to name a few in the field of bio. Clarins My Blend skincare, made only in some institutes, has given birth to a line of Clarins boosters to add to its basic cream for all ages. In February, Chanel launched a super practical product to always have with you in your bag; the D-Pollution Essential treatment, a spray that diffuses on the skin as a mist acting as a shield against the aggressions of the urban air. Its mission; to prevent the penetration of polluting particles into the skin, to limit the oxidative stress linked to pollution, and to boost the natural defence system. This is a simplest gesture since, enough of a little spray to protect his skin. Dior also followed the trend and just launched its own line Capture Youth.

If this trend meets the actual needs of the skin, it fits quite well with the consumer's desire for increasing personalization, their desire to "burn" themselves to become their own brand a little by identifying their luggage with their initials and color bands , by asking an artist to customize their bag, or simply by choosing the screen and the functions of their connected watch. Not to mention the instant gratification that arises from the feeling of having intervened in the creation process, even if the intervention intervenes only at the final stage, in the case of a beauty treatment: that of the application.

Personalised beauty also meets with high tech. At the Consumer Electronics Show (CES) held in Las Vegas from 9 to 12 January 2018, visitors were able to discover a Neutrogena scanner, the Neutrogena Skin 360 that works with a lens a magnifying glass and LED light as well as a moisture detector that analyses the state of the skin in real time and gives advice. This kind of tool was until now reserved for the institutes. Its price? Forty dollars.

Consider getting one from the United States this summer ...

"The dematerialization and standardization result, by reaction, a need for uniqueness, originality and tailor-made."

The reasons for the enthusiasm of customers for tailor-made care? Interview with Servane Lescop, Director of the brand My Blend.

IC: Customized care first appeared in the institutes. And since about two years they are found in the range of cosmetic brands. What was the initial intuition that gave birth to the My Blend range?
Servane Lescop: My Blend was born in 2007 and was originally designed to be sold in perfumery. We went back to the spa only 2011. This is the result of a scientific approach, born from the observations of Dr. Olivier Courtin, founder of the brand and son of Jacques Courtin, on healing when he was a surgeon. Healing is very different from one individual to another and is related to one's lifestyle. But the healing and anti-aging fight call for the same physiological phenomenon: cellular regeneration. It is now known that cellular regeneration is highly dependent on nerve endings and the cell defense system: it is therefore important to protect nerve endings and cellular defenses.

Whence the idea of ​​creating a tailor-made care?
Since all skins do not have the same biology and regeneration of cells, is dependent on the lifestyle, it is important, to have a beautiful skin, to customize its creams. For Dr. Olivier Courtin it is necessary to offer women the choice in the products offered, not by multiplying the range, but by adapting the formulas to the needs of each and their lifestyle. The idea is to adapt to their feelings and respond more to the needs of their skin than their age, which was until then the most common approach in cosmetics.

We are now aware that the condition of the skin is changing, but the reason for the craze for this kind of "made-to-measure" products can not be reduced to this single observation. Do you think that consumer interest is also linked to the new consumption habits of the so-called Millenials, who are looking for a more and more personalized offer to have the satisfaction of participating in the creation process?
We do not think that the craze for custom products is the only fact of Millenials: My Blend women are often more than 35 years. This is an approach that is found in all generations and affects all sectors.

The dematerialization and the standardization lead, by reaction, a need of uniqueness, originality and tailor-made. We need to find ourselves in what we buy, to make sense of what we buy. This is what allows the bespoke with, in addition, an assurance of more efficiency. That's all the Women My Blend are looking for.

You launched boosters on the market some time ago. What was the biggest challenge in adapting this institute offer to a wider audience?
My Blend was not created solely for the institutes but since the beginning has been intended for all women. Boosters are the heart of the My Blend customized care concept. These are pure active concentrates that are added to its Formule Essentielle Jour ou Nuit (up to 2 Boosters by Formule Essentielle) to meet the needs of your skin at a given moment and thus create a perfectly personalized and more effective care. It is this efficiency, linked to the customization that women are looking for.

How to understand the need of our own skin if we do not have the machine that analyzes its state as is practiced in your institutes?
We have indeed developed a skin diagnostic device for the spa, My Skin Diag spa, but you can also do your skin diagnosis on the internet by answering a very complete questionnaire about your lifestyle and your skin that allows us to determine what your needs are. When you have completed your custom blending we recommend that you make a new skin diagnosis to ensure that its needs have not changed and maximize the effectiveness of your blend. Indeed a change of season, changes in your lifestyle, stress ... have an impact on your skin and therefore its needs. From one diagnosis to the other it is rare that the Essential Formula changes, however, the duo of Boosters to mix varies very often.

Interviewed by IC.

The beauty machine

One capsule and voila? Yes, but these are not hot drinks but your beauty dose that offers the connected formulator Figure, developed by the French beauty start-up Romy Paris. - Lily Templeton.

On the occasion of the Consumer Electronic Show (CES) held in Las Vegas from 9 to 12 January 2018, the French start-up Romy presented his mini-lab of formulation resembling a coffee machine . We choose from among fifteen assets that we need and we create his own cream and serum in his kitchen.

At the heart of the machine, a basic stock serum, to which you add the active capsules (up to three), according to your needs. To know which to choose, the application of the brand analyzes your environment, whether the pollution rate or your sports activity to make a prescription for each use.

In a few seconds, the right dose for a single application is delivered to you. To keep your cream always fresh, just like you.