Dress for freedom
February 13 2018
The subject of next winter, discovered on the male podiums, is to have fun and loudly proclaim his freedom. The circus of fashion has the appearance of a cabaret, a great show where queers, cosmonauts, nerds, sportsmen, eccentrics, bourgeois, whimsical, all represented with their differences, take to the streets. Differences that make each man unique in his own way and that fashion defends. - Private Jean.
A man in an ostrich's cape walks the streets, elegant men wearing masks "heads of dogs" go to sport, an orgy turns into print. What's happening ? It's the fashion week!
It is said that a creator wanted to evoke through his collection, the sex scandals that have shaken the world of fashion and cinema in recent months. But no, he just wanted to have fun, talk about sex freely. Because yes, the whole purpose of next winter on the male podium is to have fun and loudly proclaim his freedom.
The circus of fashion has the appearance of a cabaret, a great show where queers, cosmonauts, nerds, sportsmen, eccentrics, bourgeois, whimsical, all represented with their differences, take to the streets. Differences that make each man unique in his own way and that fashion defends.
One million tweets later and after multiple scandals, the #balancetonporc is now a true social phenomenon. It is characteristic of a time when one becomes a judge behind his screen and where deliver his verdict with tweets and posts instagram, becomes an automatism. This is what Catherine Deneuve tried in vain to explain, before paying the price.
The Belgian designer Walter Van Beirendonck is the last to have been assimilated to this hashtag. His collection, which scrolls parkas-pigs in neon latex, made the buzz. The journalists wrote that his collection was inspired by the latest scandals related to sexual assault and refers to the famous hashtag. But it is not so. The parade is intended as an ode to sexual freedom, gambling and fetishism by reproducing the image of an underground club kids party in a garage in the early 90. It pays tribute to those people who fought for their independence by celebrating it. Walter Van Beirendonck plays on textures games, mesh tops are worn under padded jackets with the size marked, the cabans are metallic, pants and parkas latex. The highlight of the show? A print made by the artist and designer Andrea Cammarosano, with the evocative name of "Gang Bang".
This freedom claimed by Walter Van Beirendonck, the creators, of London in Paris, passing through Milan, make them their flagship and deliver strong collections, each unique in their own way, in the image of the man who is its messenger. Who better than Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, new darling of the media, to challenge the banality? The man he draws wears long sweaters torn in dress with eighteenth shoes, denim combinations like Keith Haring or shirts-kilts, a first. He won the "Emerging Talent" award from the British Fashion Awards last year for his overflowing creativity.
In the spirit always young creator, Ludovic de Saint Sernin also upsets the codes of the male cloakroom. For his latest collection, the designer is inspired by the work of Dali, precisely his painting The persistence of Memory, with the famous soft and misshapen clocks. How does this translate on the garment? By assembling shapes that create a ceramic waistcoat, velvet pants that stand out from their belt to form a trompe-l'oeil panties and thigh high very high. A brilliant work on the questioning of the body of man and his relation to time.
Finally to close this trio of young people, Palomo Spain is the mark to follow urgently. From flamenco ensembles in red velvet with fringes to the great Roi Soleil cape worn with waders, everything is perfectly made and beautiful.
In the big leagues and in another style, Donatella Versace reminds us that the story of the Versace house is rich and free of any convention. While the series American Crime Story Ryan Murphy is currently retracing the murder of Gianni Versace with guest star Penelope Cruz as Donatella, the brand affirms its codes and its flamboyant aesthetic. The baroque printed velvet jackets made as jackets are probably the best on the catwalks this season.
On a more intellectual journey, the Undercover brand was the guest of the Pitti Uomo and for the occasion created parallel worlds with timeless prints: cosmonauts in a rococo palace, a temple like Kubrick ... A whole concept.