‘I approach couture like high jewellery’
Last December, Caroline Scheufele, co-president and artistic director of Chopard, presented her third couture collection. This is a new venture for the House, which already has several other areas of expertise to its credit: watchmaking, jewellery, leather goods and perfumery. The collection showcases technical prowess. Isabelle Cerboneschi
Caroline Scheufele, co-president and artistic director of Chopard, in front of the Caroline’s Couture pop-up boutique in Geneva. The models are wearing pieces from the third collection. ©Chopard
In May 2023, during the Cannes Film Festival, Caroline Scheufele, co-president and artistic director of Chopard, took everyone by surprise. During the annual show she organises to present her high jewellery collections, she unveiled her first couture collection, which she named Caroline’s Couture.
‘Although I work with the greatest couturiers, I have often noticed that my creations, which are fine and delicate, are not in perfect harmony with the necklines or colour ranges of their designs,’ she confided at the time. The artistic director therefore had the idea of creating outfits that would perfectly complement her jewellery, calling on young couturiers and designers.
‘I wanted to take on a new challenge: to step outside my comfort zone, expand Chopard’s universe into couture, develop fabrics with colours that reflect those of the precious stones in our jewellery, work with artisans as talented as our own, and design dresses and models that perfectly complement my high jewellery collections.”
Inside the Caroline’s Couture pop-up boutique in the Rues Basses district of Geneva
What could have been a once-off event exceeded her expectations. Clients were so enthusiastic that a whole team had to be set up to take measurements and follow up on orders. Behind Caroline’s Couture is the idea of creating pieces that will showcase the jewellery and the woman wearing it, and people love it. A lot.
The fabrics and embellishments are developed especially for Caroline’s Couture in the best workshops in France, Italy, Switzerland, India and China. Chopard’s artistic director calls on Jakob Schlaepfer, the historic supplier to the great fashion houses, based in St. Gallen. Their expertise echoes that which presides over the creation of Chopard jewellery.
Last December, in a pop-up boutique in Geneva’s Rues Basses, Caroline Scheufele presented her third collection as well as two capsule collections: one inspired by the Insofu collection, the high jewellery line she created using stones from an extraordinary 6,225-carat rough emerald, and the other from the Ice Cube collection. After the presentation, the artistic director spoke about what is becoming one of Chopard’s new areas of expertise.
For the Caroline’s Couture collections, Chopard calls on artisans who develop fabrics with colours that reflect those of the precious stones in the Maison’s jewellery. ©Chopard
INTERVIEW
What can you tell us about this third collection?
Caroline Scheufele: This is the collection that was shown in Cannes in May 2025. We have been developing one per year since 2023. Today, it is presented with two capsules: the Insofu collection, which we showed earlier this year in Paris and which is inspired by the high jewellery collection of the same name that we created with stones from the rough emerald that I named Insofu. We used an ancient Italian technique called ‘stampa catena’ (chain printing, ed.) which blurs the pattern, a little like the dresses of the French court in the 18th century. The second capsule collection, which was presented in New York, is dedicated to the Ice Cube jewellery collection. Thanks to Jakob Schlaepfer, we were able to recreate the effect of gold in St. Gallen embroidery, like precious metal marquetry. The result is spectacular.
You mention the 2023 collection. Were you surprised by the success of this first Caroline’s Couture collection?
Yes, I was very surprised by the reaction of the public, clients and the press when we presented our first collection in Cannes in 2023. That was three years ago already! It was a very private presentation because the garments are made to measure for customers, but it was very successful.
One of the models from the third Caroline’s Couture collection ©Chopard
Are you already thinking about doing ready-to-wear?
We are currently creating a small ‘ready-to-take-off-and-go’ collection for Eden Rock – St Barths in Saint Barthélemy. It’s a small, limited-edition capsule collection featuring beach shirts and daytime pyjamas. It will also be available in Cannes in May 2026.
What do your clients come to you for that they can’t find elsewhere?
For us, as with high jewellery, the client is at the centre of everything we do. We adapt our designs to their needs. If a customer from the Middle East likes one of our dresses but would prefer it with long sleeves, or without transparency, or with a more closed collar, we will make it as desired. The models who walk the runway are 5’11” tall and size zero, but this is not the case for the majority of women around the world. And these women are the ones who matter most. I approach couture in the same way as high jewellery: I work around the woman, to enhance her beauty, so that her face is visible and she doesn’t disappear into her dress. I think that’s what customers appreciate.
A tailor-made white blouse to wear day or night. The long evening skirt is entirely embroidered with embellishments like emeralds. ©Chopard
As Caroline’s Couture is growing, have you thought about creating a real showroom?
Yes. We are going to structure this activity, but I still want to keep that very intimate aspect, that one-to-one relationship with our customers. During couture week at the end of January, we will have a showroom under the roof of our hotel on Place Vendôme in Paris. It will remain there for a while, but my goal is to find a permanent location in Paris where we can welcome our clients and take their measurements, because Paris remains the fashion capital. And I would like to have another space in Geneva, of course, because that’s where our head office is located and because the city is very international. Many of our clients spend time there.
Can couture be considered one of Chopard’s crafts in its own right?
It is indeed a new craft that involves many artisans. It’s impressive to see the expertise that goes into creating fabrics. With Jakob Schlaepfer, an embroidery manufacturer based in St. Gallen, we have created a fabric inspired by our Ice Cube collection, and the result is extraordinary. Technically, it’s a masterpiece. And what’s more, it’s a Swiss company! That’s very satisfying.
Jakob Schlaefler, the St. Gallen embroidery manufacturer, recreated the gold effect of the Ice Cube jewellery collection, like precious metal marquetry
What is your favourite piece, if you have one?
A little pantsuit that I have in several colours. Today I’m wearing it with a jumper, but you can also wear it in the evening depending on how you accessorise it: dress up or dress down. I also love the large Insofu evening cape, which features the colours of the 6225-carat rough emerald that inspired the collection. It’s an extraordinary piece that can be worn with a very simple dress. The fabric is sublime. You can put the cape in your suitcase and when you take it out, it’s not creased. No need to iron it. I travel a lot and often attend evening events. So I have to pack outfits accordingly, but when I unpack my suitcase, everything is creased. This coat is perfect for travelling.
What project are you working on?
I’m working simultaneously on the fine jewellery and couture collections that will be presented in Cannes in May 2026. What’s very interesting is that the two worlds communicate with each other and couture also brings some ideas to jewellery. This exchange is very beautiful to observe.
Behind Caroline’s Couture is the idea of creating pieces that will showcase the jewellery and the woman wearing it
