Bvlgari’s Polychroma: colour as a manifesto
In May 2025, a photo shoot unlike any other took place. In a mansion in the hills above Rome, surrounded by lush gardens, Bvlgari gave us access to a large part of the Polychroma collection, which was due to be presented a few weeks later in Taormina. It was a rare experience. Text: Isabelle Cerboneschi. Model: Vivienne Oesch. Photos & Style: Buonomo & Cometti.
It was barely 8 a.m. when we landed in Rome. The sun bathed the city in golden light. An invitation to indolence that we ignored: the day promised to be a busy one. We headed for Villa Piccolomini, not far from the Janiculum. Its structure dates back to ancient Rome. From its gardens with their manicured groves, you can see St. Peter’s Basilica. It is this timeless setting that Bvlgari has chosen as the backdrop for its jewels. An ideal place to present a collection that draws its inspiration from the Eternal City.
Inside the villa, protected by translucent cases, multicoloured jewels under close surveillance were waiting to be photographed. With its Polychroma collection, which includes 600 pieces, 250 new items and 60 creations, Bvlgari has dared to use colour as a manifesto. Discovering these pieces set with exuberant stones, I felt like a child who had slipped into Ali Baba’s cave. But among all these jewels, which ones to choose?
One piece in particular taunted me with its brilliance. I could see nothing else, a burst of audacity, an extravagance: the Celestial Mosaic necklace, one of the five masterpieces of ‘The Gallery of Wonders’. This jewel, inspired by the ‘Tree of Life’ mosaic dating from the Umayyad era (7th and 8th centuries) and on display at Hisham’s Palace in Jericho, holds at its heart a 131.21-carat spinel from Tajikistan. An exceptional gem: the fourth largest spinel in the world and the finest in terms of quality. Echoing the name of this polychrome collection, this stone is topped with an 8.36-carat Paraiba tourmaline and surrounded by a mosaic of gems: pink and green tourmalines, topazes, rubellites, aquamarines, smudged emeralds, onyx and diamonds.
Another masterful piece caught my eye, or rather, its central 51.10-carat emerald from Colombia. A green light in the language of stones that gives you permission to do anything, especially to dream. This piece named Emerald Exuberance, was perfect for adorning the graceful neck of model Vivienne Oesch, seated in the middle of the garden under the midday sun.
After flamboyance comes softness. The Chalcedony Sinuosity set plays on celestial tones with its nine cabochon chalcedony stones totalling 114.59 carats and 14 round chalcedony stones (34.98 ct) that harmonise with 13 cabochon rubellites (26.45 ct) and diamonds.
High jewellery watches punctuate the collection: the Serpenti Cleopatra mini watch, set with diamonds and a magnificent 20.58 ct Paraiba tourmaline, or the Serpenti Secret Watch, set with diamonds and powered by a micro mechanical movement.
Let’s talk about the snake, one of Bulgari’s iconic symbols. The Serpenti Invisible Violet necklace is a versatile interpretation of this theme. Part of this jewel can be detached to become a pair of rose gold earrings set with two 20.04-carat pink spinels, mandarin garnets, pink sapphires, suiffé sapphires, cabochon emeralds and diamonds.
Like a natural spotlight, the sun shone its rays on the jewels while photographers Buonomo & Cometti fanned the model with whatever they had at hand. That’s another take.
Having almost unrestricted access to jewels of such exuberance, rarity and value is a rare experience. And seeing them come to life under the sun of Rome, Bvlgari‘s home city, on a hand or neck, gave them their full meaning. For a jewel, however precious it may be, is not meant to remain in a safe. It is made to shine, to step out into the daylight or magnify the nights. It is made for skin that will complete the work of all the artisans who have worked in the shadows to give shape to dreams carved in stone.
